
Above you see a dazzling swizzle from Kato‘s Austin Hennelly with amazake (not sure if it’s housemade or not, no idea where you would buy it) coconut milk, masala chai, fresh lime juice, Spuma Nero (a bitter chinotto soda) and almond orgeat. It also looks like we have the gratings of some lime and something else up there which give some brightness and pop. It’s in a real cool modified classic Irish coffee type glass (sundae?) and it has what appears to be a bamboo straw or something of that current commonplace magnitude (we use gross metal straws). Not only is the the cocktail beautiful, it also is presented on a nice looking wicker coaster. Absolutely gorgeous. This isn’t something thought of on the cuff. The ingredients are layered here and cascade and swirl down the side of the drink for viewing pleasure. Also, pebble ice. I’m guessing this puppy is non-alcoholic, as all the components have no booze except for the amazake which can come zero proof if necessary.
This is what you call a Michelin starred cocktail program, especially with non-alcoholic offerings such as this. Goddam. Congrats.
A couple of things: I had to look up both Spuma Nero and chinotto. Spuma Nero is basically an Italian soda made with rhubarb root, citrus myrtifolia (myrtle leaved orange tree), vanilla, orange zest, and no preservatives or artificial colorings, etc. Chinotto is another Italian soda, more popular, which spawned from the idea of Spuma Nero. It’s made with the aforementioned citrus myrtifolia but is more commercial. For example, in Australia, Coca-Cola owns one of the brands there called Bisleri.
This star, awarded for Exceptional Cocktails, to me, is a no brainer. Another high end, über expensive place with an outstanding cocktail list and a serious maestro at the helm, one Austin Hennelly. I don’t know the guy personally, but I’ve been following him and the place of his employment, Kato, for a little while on the instagram. Creeping around and admiring his program. Not only does this guy make beautiful cocktails, he does it without going overboard on the garnishes or pomposity, which I personally enjoy. One thing (among many others) he does very well, I’ve noticed, is he chooses his glasses for his cocktails wisely, and much of the impressive presentation revolves around his masterful vessel selection. Let’s look at a few more.

Above is a spice wine sour he calls the Syllabub (an old school cocktail with cream and egg white). This one contains Oloroso sherry, Amaro Dell’Etna, calpico and garnished with a salted egg yolk. Sounds delish, and once again, look at the damn glass. Oh the glass. Truly magnificent. The finishing touch of the green coaster only adds to how good looking this is.

We’ve got a shaved ice lychee martini here with agricole rhum, pisco, St. Germain, and yogurt. In the photo he’s pouring the whole thing tableside from some type of ceramic vessel imbued with a peacock and flowery decorations. It comes with a spoon that is elegantly propped with a silver shelf. The glass for the main event here, of course, is appropriate to the drink itself. Wide mouthed and reminiscent of an ice cream dish. Fucking A.

Here we have a sake cobbler for the summer. Amaro, blackberries, blueberries, cassis, and a housemade Japanese whisky umeshu aged for two years. Ultra cool in my book. Seasonal as well as something made in house. Again, in yet another spectacular presentation, the colors and the way the cocktail stands up tall is very beautiful and it all comes together at the top in colorful form with the orange slices and mint sprigs. Again, pebble ice.
It’s such a pleasure to see the next level (or in this case many levels up). Realize that a drink can taste good, have a story, include seasonal ingredients along with cool techniques, but also be artistic. I’d also like to note, that of the few selections of Austin’s cocktails I examined, none of them prescribe to the common sinister six (old fashioned, Manhattan, highball, daiquiri, daisy, flip) that you normally see. I don’t know his specs, but all these drinks seem to be their own thing entirely. We’re not just shaking up lime juice with fruit syrup and booze over at Kato. Each of the cocktails have those components worked in without having to lean too hard on lime and lemon juice like other, uh, programs do.
There are a few bells and whistles in the program at Kato in the form of a carbonation system, pebble ice machine, and a centrifuge (I’m speaking from pure jealousy here), but these are just tools and not front and center instruments the program hinges on. No, there’s more at work here. There’s serious thought as to what goes where and how it all looks. Another big congrats to Austin Hennelly and his bar team for a well deserved Michelin star.
I’ve got to be honest, a horrible and envious and yes, ugly, part of me bubbled up when I learned of all this news this morning. Not because I think we’re the Rustic Canyon Bar Program is on the same level and were shunned in some way, quite the opposite, actually. I think their stuff is magnificent and way over our heads over there. No, I’m green with envy at them having such great tools at their disposal. I just wish I had some of their budget for glassware and toys. Sigh. even if we did, however, we don’t have any space for any of it. We’re a small corner bar and we do what we can with what we have. Kato is next level in every way imaginable. The old saying “A good carpenter doesn’t blame his tools” resounds strongly here. I mean, the shit Chef Fox and Chef Doubrava were able to do inside Rustic was nothing short of astonishing considering the spacial limitations. It’s uplifting and honestly inspiring to see what Kato and Austin Hennelly are doing and something to strive for. I can’t wait to go to the farmer’s market in an hour. I’m fucking giddy.
Leave a reply to New Cocktail: Clueless Angel – The Aging Bartender Cancel reply